Yeosu 여수 ~ Naval Base of the Joseon Dynasty

Yeosu (여수,麗水) 

Despite the promotions of the Yeosu expo in 2012, Yeosu remains very much a quiet harbour city with few tourists. The locals are very friendly and helpful, and sometimes makes you slightly skeptical. We happened to meet a friendly elderly who can speak good English, and he led us to take a shortcut bus ride to our destination.

How to get there: From Seoul Central City, take the express bus to Yeosu (about 4 hours).

We took the overnight express bus to Yeosu on a Friday night and reached at 2am in the morning. The area around the bus station was quiet with a few taxis waiting outside the station.

We crossed the street from the station and found a concentration of motels nearby. As it was late at night, most of the receptions were empty. We managed to wake an ajussi at one of the motels, and got a room for 40,000krw a night. Decent room with Olleh TV!

Dubai Motel (두바이 모텔)

Address: 전라남도 여수시 오림4길 55 (오림동) 55 Orim 4-gil (406-18 Orim-dong), Yeosu, Jeollanam-do, South Korea

Room rates

The room was actually for 2 persons, but the ajussi let the 3 of us in anyway. Do note that some of the motels only allow 2 persons per room, so do inform them that there are more people. The uncle gave us 3 toothbrushes of different designs so that we can differentiate them! The room was well-kept, very clean and neat. There's even a PC for free internet usage.

As you visit the attractions in Yeosu, you will realise that the maritime city is about Admiral Yi Sun-shin (이순신; 李舜臣) and his naval achievements. Yes you can see his statue at Gwanghwamun in Seoul too. 

Statue of Yi Sun Shin and the turtle ship (거북선; 龜船) at Gwanghwamun

Jinnamgwan Hall (여수 진남관 / 丽水镇南馆)

Address: 11, Dongmun-ro, Yeosu-si, Jeollanam-do 전라남도 여수시 동문로 11 (군자동)

Admission is free

How to get there: From the bus stop opposite Yeosu Bus Terminal, take one of the buses below to Jinnamgwan bus stop (about 15 minutes, 11 stops) - 5,18,21,22,23,24,24-1,25,25-1,26,26-1,27,28,29,31,32,33,34,35,36,37,38,73,80,82,83,84,88,89,90,91,92,93,95,100,102,103,105,106,109,111,112,113,114,115,116,666,999

Jinnamgwan served as the Headquarters of the Naval Forces of the South during the Joseon Dynasty

Near Jinnamgwan, you can see the statue of Admiral Yi Sun Shin. Just across the road is a Turtle Ship (Geobukseon) Museum.

You can try on the costume of the Naval Commander on board and take photos!

Harbour near the Geobukseon

After our short detour to Jinnamgwan and the Geobukseon, we left for Odongdo. 

Grandmothers selling dried seafood along the road to Odongdo

The MVL Hotel near Odongdo

Odongdo Island (오동도 / 梧桐岛)

Address: Odongdo-ro, Yeosu-si, Jeollanam-do 전남 여수시 오동도로 全罗南道丽水市水晶洞山1-11

How to get there: From the bus stop opposite Yeosu Terminal, take bus 333. Or take buses 02, 52, 61, 68 or 76 to Odongdo bus stop.

Admission is Free

Free lockers can be found before the bridge to Odongdo

Odongdo tram

Walking into the island takes about 15min. If you are with children or elderly, or just feels lazy, you can opt to take the tram for 800krw.

Odongdo is another filming location for Running Man! The island may be small but I can understand how tiring it is to run around the island with the steep slopes! The island trail is about 1km and we were there for about 2 hours.

View of Yeosu port from the island

Odongdo Dragon cave

I only mustered enough courage to get there for a picture, since dragon cave was a bit too difficult to reach.

View of the coast and Odongdo lighthouse

Lots of steep staircases around the island

Small bamboo forest

Cafe selling drinks and snacks near the lighthouse

Do you know that there's staff accommodation on the island too?

Next up, we went to the Eel Stew & Sliced Raw Fish Restaurant Street (장어탕횟집거리) for lunch.

Along the port

The street was quiet, but definitely not the restaurant we went to! 

Jamae Restaurant (자매식당)

Telephone: 061-641-3992

Address: 전남 여수시 어항단지로 21 / 21 Eohangdanji-ro (1082-7 Guk-dong) Yeosu, Jeollanam-do South Korea

The restaurant was crowded during lunch. We ordered the bbq eel (half salted and half marinated), minimum order for 3 pax (16,000krw per pax). The meal came with lots of side dishes, and the ajumma gave us a fanta as service! Personally I'm not a fan of eels because of the bones, but the marinated eel was delicious! I liked it wrapped like what you'll do with bbq meat.

Another destination we wanted to visit was the Yeojaman Bay Mudflats. The place is about 1 hour away from Yeosu, and thankfully we found out that the Yeosu night tour (4,000krw per pax) brings us there.

As we waited for the Yeosu night tour for a chance to see the mudflats during sunset, we took a short break at a cafe nearby called Mr Tea and Coffee. It's just across the road from the City Tour bus stop. I had goguma (sweet potato) latte and loved it!

City tour bus stop

Yeosu city tour bus - Before we started the tour, the tourguide informed us that it was very unlikely that we will see the sunset due to the weather. We can choose to get off the bus or take the chance! Again, love the Koreans for their honesty. 

First stop - Coastal area around Yeosu Culture and Arts Park (예울마루)

We stopped for a 5-min photo stop.

And, the only glimpse of sunset we saw that day.

Next stop, Jang Cheok Village (장척마을), where we were supposed to see the mudflats. 

This area was supposed to be the mudflats if not for the high tides. Do remember to check the timing of the tides as well as sunsets if you plan to make a trip there.

Dolsan Park (돌산공원) & Dolsan Bridge

The last stop of the night tour was Dolsan Park. The way up to this view is quite rocky and steep, and takes about 5-10 minutes. One of the cons of being part of a tour group was the number of people trying to take photos at the same spot as you within a short period of time. On the other hand, the tourguide knows the best angle to take the photos! 

Address: Udu-ri, Dolsan-eup, Yeosu-si, Jeollanam-do 전남 여수시 돌산읍 우두리

How to get there: Across from Yeosu Intercity Bus Terminal, take Bus 100, 102, 109, 111 or 999 and get off at the entrance of Dolsan Park.

Dolsan Park overlooking the Marine Park and Janggundo Island

광장막걸리

We finished the night tour back at Yi Sun Shin Square, and stopped for dinner at a nearby restaurant. Most restaurants at the markets were closed by 8/9pm, and the only options you have are the roadside stalls, or sul-jip (pubs / restaurants that sell alcohol) as they may still have snacks. With the help of the tourguide, we found this restaurant and ordered raw fish (30,000krw) to satisfy our craving! Although the raw fish doesn't look like the usual brightly coloured salmon or tuna that we were used to, it tasted good, especially with the special sauces! We also ordered the spicy fish stew (Maeuntang 매운탕) for 20,000krw. Well, it was too much food for the 3 of us.

Address: 전남 여수시 중앙로 77-1 South Korea, Jeollanam-do, Yeosu, 중앙로 77-1 (431 Jungang-dong)

Overall, a day trip is probably enough to cover most of the major tourist attractions in Yeosu. A great choice to lose the crowds of tourists!